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Brooch – 1920s Sapphire & Pearl

30052
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A post Edwardian bar brooch¹ styled as a ladder-like parallel set of bars crossed-over with a realistically styled stem of leaves and flowerheads set with pearls and meeting with a milligrain-set sapphire feature. Entirely yellow gold-coloured construction. Circa 1920-1930.

£250.00
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Description

Brooch – 1920s Sapphire & Pearl

A post Edwardian bar brooch¹ styled as a ladder-like parallel set of bars crossed-over with a realistically styled stem of leaves and flowerheads set with pearls and meeting with a milligrain-set sapphire feature. Entirely yellow gold-coloured construction. Circa 1920-1930.

 

Assessment of the Sapphire.

Cut: French-cut².

Measuring: 3.20mm x 3.20mm x 1.93mm.

Calculated weight: 0.20cts.

Colour: deep to strong blue (2.5PB.8/2).

Clarity: VS.

 

Assessment of the Pearls (six).

Averages stated where applicable.

Graduated measurement: 1.50mm to 2.10mm.

Nature: light cream colour, fair lustre, mostly clean surface quality.

 

Details of the Setting.

Measuring: 55.12mm x 11.38mm.

Unhallmarked: tested and valued as 15ct gold.

Stamped: ‘15ct’.

Weight: 3.14g.

Condition: fair.

 

£250.00.

 

Comment(s).

¹. Bar brooches appeared in the 1890s and immediately enjoyed a great success. In its simplest form the bar brooch was plainly set with a single diamond, but its functional shape offered the jeweller a field in which to exploit their fantasy and imagination, thus bar brooches were decorated with crescents and stars, sprays of leaves and flowers, pheasants and chanticleers, swallows and flies, shamrocks and clovers (David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti 'Understanding Jewellery', 1989). After 1900 and certainly by 1910 the cuir roule and overt styling on bar brooches was replaced by the simple shape of a straight line, sometimes set with calibrated gemstones, or using white gold or platinum.  

 

². A “French-Cut” is a name given to a group of similar facet designs used for small square complimentary coloured gemstones. The most typical of which uses eight triangular crown facets arranged to produce a square table at 45° to the edges of the stone, and a step-cut pavilion. The name is in recognition to a diamond facet design, dating back to the 15th century but didn’t become fashionable until the 17th century, when brilliance was first of all merely excepted and finally became a requisite of all diamonds. During this time many diamonds were refashioned, and of particular important importance were the royal court diamond cutters to Louis XIV. The lower relief faceting of these cuts tends to reduce the light effects in a diamond, so the design was soon abandoned. But it was gradually adopted for coloured gems such as beryls, quartzes etc, whose lower refracting power favoured such fascinating, and so it has survived to the present day. The most prevalent use in the modern times is with complimentary stones; blue sapphires, rubies, and sometimes emeralds in 1920s post Edwardian jewels when the sharp cornered outline and ‘calibrated’ aesthetic was in vogue; preceding the Art Deco era.

 

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Brooch – 1920s Sapphire & Pearl

Brooch – 1920s Sapphire & Pearl

A post Edwardian bar brooch¹ styled as a ladder-like parallel set of bars crossed-over with a realistically styled stem of leaves and flowerheads set with pearls and meeting with a milligrain-set sapphire feature. Entirely yellow gold-coloured construction. Circa 1920-1930.

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