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Ring – Marquise-Cut Diamond Two-Stone Cross-Over

30526
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A modern ring featuring two claw-set fancy cut¹ diamonds in an entirely white gold 18ct cross-over² setting and ring shank.

£2,500.00
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Last items in stock

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Description

Ring – Marquise-Cut Diamond Two-Stone Cross-Over

A modern ring featuring two claw-set fancy cut¹ diamonds in an entirely white gold 18ct cross-over² setting and ring shank.

 

Assessment of the Diamonds.

Averages stated where applicable.

Cuts: marquise-cut³ brilliants.

Measuring: 6.95mm x 3.40mm x 2.00mm.

Calculated total weight: 0.60cts.

Colour: G/H.

Clarity: VS2/SI1.

 

Details of the Setting.

Hallmarked: 18ct white gold, London 2007.

Sponsor’s mark: ‘IDJC’.

Stamped: ‘60’.

Finger size: M.1/2.

Weight: 3.50g.

Condition: excellent.

 

£2500.00.

 

                                                                                                                                                     

Comment(s).

¹. In the modern era the majority of diamonds are fashioned into round brilliants. However, some rough stones have natural outlines which allow the possibility for the cutter, and ultimately the owner, some unique opportunities. “Fancy cuts have fired the imagination of designers in jewellery; particularly in Paris. Women have been quick to realise that one of these shapes on the finger will attract more attention than all the other round ones. Though the secrets of fancy cuts have always been jealously guarded by diamond cutters, in modern diamond cutting, there is a great awareness of fancy cuts by progressive manufacturers as the potential of these cuts is discovered. The outlines or shapes are difficult to standardise as individual tastes might differ, but here again the natural rough shape would dominate the proportions of the finished shape. However, certain angles and proportions of facets must be maintained to recover the full brilliance, scintillation, and beauty of all fancy cuts” (Basil Watermeyer, ‘Diamond Cutting. A Complete Guide to Diamond Processing’,1984).  As described, unlike the round there is no standardised set of tolerances for fancy shapes, however there is still symmetry and balance which must be critically observed, for example a harmonious outline, a ratio of length to width, and proportion of shape. “There are no set rules for the measurements or angles of these facets. You are completely in the domain of the fancy cut. What was previously mechanical (in rounds) now becomes artistry. Your ability to make it look concentric and beautiful is the hallmark of the fine craftsman skill. This is why a fancy cutter is always in demand. He is generally a cutter’s cutter, for only 10% of the diamond cutters cut these exotic shapes. From the standpoint of employment, a proficient cutter is always in demand” (Leonard Ludel, ‘How to Cut a Diamond. A Diamond Cutter’s Handbook’, 1985). Technical expertise and passion go hand in hand in diamond cutting. These highly skilled workmen and women are required to blend a purely manual process with an artistic aesthetic consideration. “In a sense, each time and can be compared to a hugely valuable puzzle waiting to be solved – but of course there may be a great variety of possible solutions. Often a large diamond will have the initial cuts made by a highly precise computer guided laser. Coldly calculated algorithms may help eliminate unknown's, but it is the experience of seasoned gemmologists that will make the final decision-often after weeks or even months of careful consideration, and time spent contemplating a particular stone and its possibilities. For then it is up to a human hand to coax the best from each stone because polishing a diamond is a craft that requires the senses. Facet by facet, turn by turn, the cutter presses the stone against the spinning diamond coated disc, guided by his eye and years of practice. The slightest pressure from the fingertips on the diamond at the wheel guides the master polisher, who marries science and craft to coax out a gem’s ideal brilliance” (Maria Doulton, ‘Miracles’, in ‘Graff’, 2015).

 

². This style of ring first appears in the late Victorian era. “Although the function of the ring limited its shape, constricting the jeweller’s imagination to elaborations of old designs, towards the end of the 19th century some new patterns appeared. The most successful innovation of the 1890s was the crossover ring, set with two diamonds, with a diamond and a pearl or perhaps a coloured precious stone between scrolled shoulders. With minor alterations to the basic design, the crossover ring has survived the whims of fashion until the present day” (David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti 'Understanding Jewellery', 1989).

 

³. A marquise is a modified brilliant cut using an elliptical shape with pointed ends. “The marquise is considered the undisputed Queen of all the modern diamond cuts, though the round cut produces the greatest brilliance of all diamond cuts, the marquise, when correctly cut produces a scintillating brilliance which surpasses all cuts, including the round. Origin of the name marquise and earliest known report of this shape, stems from Madame de Pompadour, the famous mistress of Louis XV, King of France. In the year 1745, the King bestowed to the title of Marquise upon her and she was then presented at court as Marquise de pompadour. At about the same time a new shape in diamond cut appeared in Paris and was named Marquise in her honour and to popularise her new title” (Basil Watermeyer, ‘Diamond Cutting. A Complete Guide to Diamond Processing’,1984). As described the diamond cut is attributed a name in the eighteenth century, however the actual facet design appears much earlier, and in conjunction with another fancy cut; the heart, in a renaissance ‘old master’ painting A Gonzaga Princess, by Frans Pourbus the Younger painted in 1605. "The large piece of jewellery on the princess’s left sleeve contains a great variety of different cuts. The small table cuts and hogbacks were especially shaped to fit very exactly into the scrolls. The detail of the headdress shows, the heart shaped diamond in the central part is pointed with six facets. Above it is a knob-cut. On each side are four faceted, pointed, boat shaped or navette” (Herbert Tillander, ‘Diamond Cuts in Historic Jewellery, 1381-1910’, 1994).

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30526
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Ring – Marquise-Cut Diamond Two-Stone Cross-Over

Ring – Marquise-Cut Diamond Two-Stone Cross-Over

A modern ring featuring two claw-set fancy cut¹ diamonds in an entirely white gold 18ct cross-over² setting and ring shank.

Write your review
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