Ring – Emerald & Diamond Trefoil
A cluster ring design as a trefoil, featuring an emerald¹ in a four-claw yellow gold setting with six diamonds in a milligrained-set white gold shoulders and joined with a white gold ring shank. Circa 2009.
Assessment of the Emerald.
Cut: emerald-cut (rectangular step-cut², with a two-tiered crown and three-tiered pavilion).
Measuring: 7.15mm x 5.20mm x 3.49mm.
Weight: 0.97cts (stone weighed prior to setting).
Colour: strong slightly bluish green (7.5G.10/4).
Assessment of the Diamonds.
Averages stated where applicable.
Cuts: round brilliants.
Total weight: 0.25cts (stones weighed prior to setting).
Details of the Setting.
Hallmarked: 18ct gold, London convention mark.
Sponsor’s mark: ‘DOM’ (Domino Jewellery³, headquarters in Vyse Street Birmingham).
Additional hallmarked: Emagold⁴ standards mark.
Finger size: M.
¹. “‘We delight in feasting our eyes on the pleasant green of the grasses and leaves, but the enjoyment of beholding an emerald is incomparably greater, for its green is the most soothing’-was how Pliny’s hymn of praise described the fine head of the beryl family. Chromium oxide is decisive for the creation of this extravagant green. Only those beryls that have chromium and/or vanadium as chromophores can be considered to be emeralds. The intensity of the colour depends on the quantity of chromium, which can amount to several percent. The trace elements of iron and vanadium that frequently accompanied chromium create yellow and blueish tones” (Eduard Gűbelin and Franz-Xaver Erni, “Gemstones, Symbols of Beauty and Power’, 1999). “Through a microscope emerald reveal another world, inclusions can fill the stone and may sometimes be seen by the unaided eye. Intriguing three-phase inclusions consisting of a crystal and a bubble with in a liquid cavity seem to float next to hollow rain-like tubes; mica platelets and tiny pyrites sparkle with reflected light, all combining to give a moss-like background aptly named emerald’s ‘jardin’ (French, ‘garden’)” (Vladyslav Y. Yavorskyy, ‘Gemstones’, 2017).
². The step-cut is among the oldest cuts and is still very popular today. Because of the relative simplicity it has a modern appearance. In the step-cut a series of more or less rectangular facets on the crown and pavilion proceed in rows (or steps) towards the girdle and culet. Although sometimes the pointed corners are left, it is more usual to find them slightly cut off. Therefore, in actually creating an octagonal outline, however when small, the stone retains a squarish, or rectangular appearance and is subsequently called an ‘emerald-cut’. This is because it is a commercial way of cutting emerald and other beryls or long prismatic gemstones. The step-cut is less complicated than the brilliant, but because each facet is larger in area, cutting and polishing takes longer, also slight inaccuracies are easy to see. It is a test of the lapidary’s skill because the long and narrow facets must be close to perfectly parallel, otherwise they look wedge shaped. When well fashioned this facet design produced long ribbons of reflective light and a wide uninterrupted view of the gemstone’s body hue, tone and saturation of colour.
³. Domino Jewellery, established 1983, is based in Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter, with a trade counter in London's Hatton Garden, who as well as manufacturing jewellery, also supply speciality components to other manufacturing jewellers. Originally a family run business, Domino have now become part of the Heimerle + Meule Group. They are an accredited member of the Responsible Jewellery Council, and guarantee that they provide jewellery with the highest possible ethical credentials with materials that are accountable and traceable. As well as supplying traditional jewellery ranges, they also design and produce in house many award winning contemporary and innovative designs.
⁴. The Emagold ‘Solar’ mark was an additional hallmark used between 1992 and August 2010 to indicate that the manufacturer adhered to stringent quality control processes when casting. The system was overseen by Emagold (The European Manufacturers’ Association) with the support of the World Gold Council. The Emagold ‘Solar’ mark – a sun-like symbol stamped onto 18ct and 22ct jewellery alongside the hallmark was used to indicate that the manufacturer adhered to the very highest level of quality standards. The scheme was abandoned in August 2010 after the World Gold Council withdrew support. The UK members were Centre Jewellery, Cookson Precious Metals, Curteis, Domino, Euro Findings, The GW Group, Hean Studio, Saunders Shepherd and Stubbs & Co.