Brooch – 1920s Hat Brooch
A post Edwardian rose gold-coloured bar brooch¹ arranged vertically as a rectangular profile bar, surmounted with bifurcating wire-work featuring and collet-set almandine garnet. Circa 1920-1930².
Assessment of the Garnet.
Cut: eight-main round brilliant.
Measuring: 4.25mm x 4.25mm (depth immeasurable).
Estimated weight: 0.43cts.
Colour: deep purplish pink (5RP.10/6).
Details of the Setting.
Measuring: 48.42mm x 4.75mm.
Unhallmarked: tested and valued as 9ct gold.
¹. Bar brooches appeared in the 1890s and immediately enjoyed a great success. In its simplest form the bar brooch was plainly set with a single diamond, but its functional shape offered the jeweller a field in which to exploit their fantasy and imagination, thus bar brooches were decorated with crescents and stars, sprays of leaves and flowers, pheasants and chanticleers, swallows and flies, shamrocks and clovers (David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti 'Understanding Jewellery', 1989). After 1900 and certainly by 1910 the cuir roule and overt styling on bar brooches was replaced by the simple shape of a straight line, sometimes set with calibrated gemstones, or using white gold or platinum.
². One of the key accessories of the 1920s was the cloche hat. The prevailing fashion for short bob-cut hair produced an equal trend in stylish hats, which could be accessorised with ribbons, bows, and simply jewellery.