Brooch – Edwardian Aquamarine Bar Brooch
An antique Edwardian brooch styled as a gold-coloured wide knife edge bar¹ centrally arranged with an oval milligrain-set aquamarine and secured with a pin and hook fitting. Circa 1900-1910.
Assessment of the Aquamarine.
Cut: oval eight-main brilliant-cut crown with mixed-cut pavilion.
Measuring: 8.13mm x 5.69mm x 2.97mm.
Calculated weight: 0.78cts.
Colour: very light blue (7.5B.4/8).
Clarity: VS (feather observed²).
Details of the Setting.
Measuring: 54.15mm x 8.76mm.
Unhallmarked: tested and valued as 9ct gold.
Stamp observed: ‘9’ (partly illegible).
¹. Bar brooches appeared in the 1890s and immediately enjoyed a great success. In its simplest form the bar brooch was plainly set with a single diamond, but its functional shape offered the jeweller a field in which to exploit their fantasy and imagination, thus bar brooches were decorated with crescents and stars, sprays of leaves and flowers, pheasants and chanticleers, swallows and flies, shamrocks and clovers (David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti 'Understanding Jewellery', 1989). After 1900 and certainly by 1910 the cuir roule and overt styling on bar brooches was replaced by the simple shape of a straight line, sometimes set with calibrated gemstones, or using white gold or platinum.
². Numerous euhedral crystal inclusion has been observed in this gemstone and, in our, considered opinion, this is supportive evidence to suggest that the stone, apart from being faceted, is a natural colour unmodified gemstone, and has been valued as such. This opinion is not substantiated and should there be any dispute concerning same, the gemstone can be unset and sent to a renowned gem testing laboratory. Sophisticated scientific tests can then be carried out, and a definitive Certificate of Authentication issued. Should it be established, due to this procedure, that this gemstone is not as stated, the appraiser reserves the right to recall this valuation and re-appraise this item.