Brooch – Edwardian Bar Brooch
An Edwardian rose gold-coloured bar brooch¹ styled as a narrow bar locating centrally with a cross-over element, featuring a milligrain-set amethyst. Secured with a pin and hook fitting. Circa 1900-1910.
Assessment of the Amethyst.
Cut: round brilliant.
Measuring: 4.69mm x 4.69mm x 3.04mm.
Calculated weight: 0.36cts.
Colour: moderate reddish purple (10P.8/5).
Details of the Setting.
Measuring: 50.85mm x 7.82mm.
Unhallmarked: tested and valued as 9ct gold.
¹. Bar brooches appeared in the 1890s and immediately enjoyed a great success. In its simplest form the bar brooch was plainly set with a single diamond, but its functional shape offered the jeweller a field in which to exploit their fantasy and imagination, thus bar brooches were decorated with crescents and stars, sprays of leaves and flowers, pheasants and chanticleers, swallows and flies, shamrocks and clovers (David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti 'Understanding Jewellery', 1989). After 1900 and certainly by 1910 the cuir roule and overt styling on bar brooches was replaced by the simple shape of a straight line, sometimes set with calibrated gemstones, or using white gold or platinum.