Brooch – Victorian Garnet Bar Brooch

30040
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An antique Victorian bar brooch¹ arranged as a curved bar principally featuring a circular central element completed with a stylised flowerhead of a rose², depicted using a pyrope garnet, with leaves set with pearls, constructed from yellow gold-coloured materials and secured with pin and hook. Circa 1890-1900.

£100.00
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Description

Brooch – Victorian Garnet Bar Brooch

An antique Victorian bar brooch¹ arranged as a curved bar principally featuring a circular central element completed with a stylised flowerhead of a rose², depicted using a pyrope garnet, with leaves set with pearls, constructed from yellow gold-coloured materials and secured with pin and hook. Circa 1890-1900.

 

Assessment of the Gemstone.

Pyrope garnet³.

Measuring: 5.18mm x 5.24mm (depth immeasurable).  

Estimated weight: 0.56cts.

Colour: dark red (5R.8/3).

Clarity: SI1.

 

Pearls (three).

Averages stated where applicable.

Measuring: 1.70mm.

 

Details of the Setting.

Measuring: 36.00mm x 13.90mm.

Unhallmarked: tested and valued as 9ct gold.

Stamped: ‘9ct’.

Weight: 1.17g.

Condition: fair.

 

£100.00.

                                                                                                                                                     

Comment(s).

¹. Bar brooches appeared in the 1890s and immediately enjoyed a great success. In its simplest form the bar brooch was plainly set with a single diamond, but its functional shape offered the jeweller a field in which to exploit their fantasy and imagination, thus bar brooches were decorated with crescents and stars, sprays of leaves and flowers, pheasants and chanticleers, swallows and flies, shamrocks and clovers (David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti 'Understanding Jewellery', 1989).

 

². The study of flower law was taken very seriously in the second half of the 19th century. The translation of the language of flowers, in particular, had become a fashionable pastime in the 1850s, and several small volumes had been published as guides to the various meanings of flowers. They also delved into the exotic associations of flowers with ancient and eastern tales. Items of sentiment always showed their meaning with flower motif. By the time they appeared on almost every one of the stamped-out brooches of the 1890s the various species of plants could barely be recognised and the flowers and leaves became very stylised.

 

³. “The name garnet does not refer to a single gemstone but rather a group of minerals which share similar chemical compositions and crystallise in the same system. The most commonly encountered are the reddish-brown stone, which although not rare can be very beautiful. The best examples, coloured red by chromium, are known as pyrope, and approximate the colour of ruby” (David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti 'Understanding Jewellery', 1989). “The term pyrope is derived from the Greek word πup, meaning ‘fire’, and Όπtouxi, meaning, ‘I see’. Varying in colour from slightly orangey-red to red, and on to violet-red as the iron from the almandine alters the hue position, pyrope can exhibit a very striking, bright fiery hue” (John D. Rouse, ‘Garnet’, 1986). 

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Brooch – Victorian Garnet Bar Brooch

Brooch – Victorian Garnet Bar Brooch

An antique Victorian bar brooch¹ arranged as a curved bar principally featuring a circular central element completed with a stylised flowerhead of a rose², depicted using a pyrope garnet, with leaves set with pearls, constructed from yellow gold-coloured materials and secured with pin and hook. Circa 1890-1900.

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