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Ring – Art Deco Diamond Cluster

30305
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An Art Deco¹ ring, featuring 15 graduated old round brilliant-cut diamond in a platinum²-coloured pave-set rectangular cluster, undersetting and ring shank. Circa1920-1930.

£5,300.00
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Description

Ring – Art Deco Diamond Cluster

An Art Deco¹ ring, featuring 15 graduated old round brilliant-cut diamond in a platinum²-coloured pave-set rectangular cluster, undersetting and ring shank. Circa1920-1930.

 

Assessment of the Diamonds.

Averages stated where applicable.

Cut: early twentieth century brilliants³ (some of the smaller complimentary diamonds are ‘double cuts’).

Measuring: 3.30mm to 5.10mm.

Estimated total weight: 3.50cts.

Colour: K-M (mixture).

Clarity: VS1-SI2 (mixture).

 

Details of the Setting.

Unhallmarked: tested and valued as 950 platinum.

No stamps or maker’s marks observed.

Finger size: N.

Weight: 6.40g.

Condition: very good.

 

£5300.00.

 

                                                                                                                                                     

Comment(s).

¹. Art Deco is “a decorative style that originated in France in the 1920s and 1930s in a protest against the art nouveau style and later art movements, and that was popularised in the United States where it continued until the 1960s and 1970s. The style emphasised abstract designs and geometric patterns. The name is derived from 'Le Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes' held in Paris in 1925" (Harold Newman, ‘An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewellery’, 1981).

 

². Many influences contributed to Art Deco, including the geometry and abstraction of the Cubist painters and the linear forms of the Vienna Succession. Technology had a powerful influence, with simpler angular and cylindrical shapes combined, often overlapping or assembled in a way that resembled parts of a machine. Bold forms, polished surfaces of blocks of gemstones replaced subtle detailing and, in keeping with the functional approach, surface decoration was minimal. Rings in the 1920s might be set with a large cabochon stone, often surrounded by small brilliance by the recently introduced rectangular baguette diamond. Platinum was chosen for wedding rings, frequently worn with a platinum and diamond solitaire engagement ring” (Clare Phillips, ‘Jewelry From Antiquity to the Present, 1996).

 

³. "Before 1872 it had been necessary to cut a diamond so as to waste as little as possible of the rough crystal. This form did not make the most of the unique optical properties of the diamond. Stones like this were too thick to exploit the exceptional refractive index and dispersion of the stone, and furthermore the large culet allowed the light to pass out of the back of the stone giving the effect of a dead spot" (Peter Hinks, 'Nineteenth Century Jewellery', 1975). Prior to 1900 these round brilliants were developed empirically as man strove to attain optimum brilliance effect, whilst at the same time limited by the technology of the era, and a conservative market that was slow to appreciate the change. “It is only since around 1910 that theoretical calculations have been used which take into consideration the optico-physical properties of diamonds – such as light refraction, dispersion and hardness – in order to achieve maximium brilliance through suitable proportions and symmetry ratios” (Verena Pagel-Theisen, ‘Diamond Grading ABC The Manual’, ninth edition, 2001).  Mathematical calculation, experimentation, and importantly technical innovation such as the diamond saw and electrically powered faceting equipment produced rapid developments in diamond designs. The salient features of the diamonds from this era are the clear circular outline, a symmetrical facet arrangement and a uniform appearance. Over the decades these brilliants evolved with the prevailing fashions of the time and are distinguished by variation in height and width proportions, an emphasis on brilliance or fire, and sometimes a clear design which produces as large a width as possible from a rough stone.

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30305
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Ring – Art Deco Diamond Cluster

Ring – Art Deco Diamond Cluster

An Art Deco¹ ring, featuring 15 graduated old round brilliant-cut diamond in a platinum²-coloured pave-set rectangular cluster, undersetting and ring shank. Circa1920-1930.

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