Brooch/Pendant – Scottish Gem-Set Jewel

30014
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A Victorian gold-coloured brooch, modified with a pendant fitting, in the Scottish¹ style. Designed as an open gem-set shield principally featuring an oval citrine surrounded by smaller round citrines with a coronet above set with pearls and garnets, and decorated with a knurled ornamented edge. Circa 1866.

£525.00
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Description

Brooch/Pendant – Scottish Gem-Set Jewel

A Victorian gold-coloured brooch, modified with a pendant fitting, in the Scottish¹ style. Designed as an open gem-set shield principally featuring an oval citrine surrounded by smaller round citrines with a coronet above set with pearls and garnets, and decorated with a knurled ornamented edge. Circa 1866.

 

Details of the Setting.

Measuring (including pendant bale): 59.90mm x 32.25mm.

Unhallmarked: tested and valued a silver gilt.

Registry mark²: 23rd February 1866 (attributed to James Fenton³, Birmingham).

 

Assessment of the Gemstones.

Principal citrine.

Cut: oval eight-main brilliant-cut crown over three-tier step pavilion.

Measuring: 13.30mm x 10.09mm x 5.10mm.

Calculated weight: 4.11cts.

Colour: light brown (7.5YR.6/5)

Clarity: VVS.

 

Surrounding citrines (nine).

Cuts: round eight-main brilliant crown over two-tier step pavilion.

Average measurement: 6.30mm.

Estimated total weight: 8.19cts.

Average colour: dark orange yellow (7.5R.10/6)

Average clarity: SI1/SI2.

 

Pearls (three).

Graduated measurement: 2.00mm to 2.40mm.

 

Garnets (two).

Cut: round cabochon.

Average measurement: 2.60mm.

 

Weight: 13.37g

Condition: fair.

 

£525.00.

 

Comment(s).

¹. The vogue was stimulated by Queen Victorian and Prince Albert's enthusiasm for Scotland, generated by their first visit in 1842. It was crowned by their discovery of Balmoral, where they spent their first holiday in 1848. The Royal couple's existing fondness for jewellery made with local pebbles easily embraced Scottish stones. The Garrard Royal Ledger for Queen Victoria includes an entry dated 3rd of November 1858, dealing with the mounting of Scottish stones, which as Prince Albert is credited with paying for the work, represents his finds (Shirley Bury, ‘Jewellery: The International Era 1789-1910. Volume 2 1862-1910, 1991).

². Designers, manufacturers or proprietors were enabled to protect their designs by registering them under the Design Copywrite Act of 1839 (2 Vict. C 17), a facility hitherto confined to textile patterns and sculptural elements incorporated in manufactured goods. As a result, the British Patent Office used two styles of registry marks on British manufactured goods between 1842 and 1883. From 1844 until 1900 serial numbers were used instead. The former being the type observed on the article described above. form of marking is observed on the article described above). All of the designs enrolled with the Board of Trade are now in the Public Record Office, Kew (BY 42; indexes 44/33). As mentioned by Shirley Bury in her book ‘Jewellery: The International Era 1789-1910. Volume 2 1862-1910, 1991.

³. The deign registered by James Fenton on the 23rd February 1866 had a similar open structure with a bar running obliquely across the aperture. The large central stone replacing the bar was clearly an afterthought but Fenton made no attempt to reregister the design in its amended state though he frequently used the Designs Acts to protect his novelties (Shirley Bury, ‘Jewellery: The International Era 1789-1910. Volume 2 1862-1910, 1991).

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Brooch/Pendant – Scottish Gem-Set Jewel

Brooch/Pendant – Scottish Gem-Set Jewel

A Victorian gold-coloured brooch, modified with a pendant fitting, in the Scottish¹ style. Designed as an open gem-set shield principally featuring an oval citrine surrounded by smaller round citrines with a coronet above set with pearls and garnets, and decorated with a knurled ornamented edge. Circa 1866.

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